The Striking Presence of Naoshima’s “Red Pumpkin”

As your ferry approaches the art island of Naoshima, the very first thing you’ll see is a giant, vibrant red pumpkin covered in black polka dots.

This striking sculpture, one of the most iconic works by world-renowned avant-garde artist Yayoi Kusama, stands as a welcoming symbol at Miyanoura Port. It greets visitors and marks the beginning of an unforgettable art journey.

1. Yayoi Kusama and the Universe of Polka Dots

Before we dive into the artwork itself, it’s worth understanding the artist behind it. Yayoi Kusama has been creating art since childhood, often grappling with hallucinations that filled her vision with multiplying polka dots and nets. To cope with this internal turmoil, she began to express these compulsive visions in her paintings and sculptures.

For Kusama, polka dots are more than just a pattern; they symbolize the infinity of the universe and the mystery of life itself, acting as a crucial theme that connects her inner world to the outer one. Pumpkins, with their rounded, humorous, yet powerful form, are a recurring motif that embodies her artistic philosophy.

2. The “Red Pumpkin” Resonates with Naoshima’s Spirit

The Red Pumpkin was installed at Naoshima’s Miyanoura Port in 2006. Kusama herself has said that she “searched for the sun’s ‘red light’ to the end of the universe, and it transformed into the Red Pumpkin in the sea of Naoshima.”

This statement highlights how the artwork, with its intense “red” hue, perfectly harmonizes with the expansive blue sky and sea of the Seto Inland Sea. Its placement in the open space of the port allows visitors to appreciate the sculpture from every angle.

The interior of the pumpkin is hollow, allowing visitors to walk inside. When you step in, light filters through the holes in the shell, casting a mesmerizing pattern of polka-dot shadows. It’s a surreal experience that feels like being inside a fantastical spaceship. This internal, quiet, and mystical space is a sharp contrast to its bright, pop-art exterior and reveals a deeper layer of Kusama’s art. The pumpkin is stunning both during the day, bathed in sunlight, and at night when it’s beautifully illuminated.

3. The Tale of Two Pumpkins: Red vs. Yellow

Naoshima is home to another one of Kusama’s famous pumpkin sculptures, the “Yellow Pumpkin,” which is located on a pier near the Benesse House Museum. While both are pumpkins, they serve entirely different roles and tell distinct stories.

• The Red Pumpkin: Placed in a public, open space, it acts as the island’s “face,” welcoming visitors. It’s an interactive piece that invites people to enter and engage with the art, fostering a sense of community.
• The Yellow Pumpkin: Located on a pier jutting out into the sea, it stands as a solitary, contemplative artwork. Visitors admire its presence from a distance, appreciating how it merges with the serene natural landscape.

Exploring both pumpkins allows you to experience the duality of Naoshima’s art scene: one that is communal and welcoming, and another that is introspective and deeply integrated with nature.

4. Tips for Your Visit

The Red Pumpkin is just a short walk from the Miyanoura Port ferry terminal.

• Best Time for Photos: Since many visitors gather around the pumpkin after a ferry arrives, try to visit either right after you disembark, before others have collected their luggage, or right before the next ferry’s departure to avoid crowds.
• Nighttime Viewing: The lit-up pumpkin is a completely different sight from its daytime appearance. If you’re staying overnight on the island, a nighttime stroll to the port is highly recommended.

Conclusion: The Symbol of Naoshima

Naoshima’s Red Pumpkin is far more than a simple sculpture. It is a living piece of art born from the fusion of Yayoi Kusama’s artistic vision, Naoshima’s history, and the surrounding natural beauty.

It symbolizes the start of an artistic journey the moment you step onto the island, and its friendly, powerful presence is loved by people from all over the world. Take a moment to stand before this giant pumpkin, feel its vibrant energy, and let it welcome you into the unique world of Naoshima. It’s a trip that will surely leave a lasting impression.